Wine and Dine Hawaii
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Top Of Waikiki. Now The Food beats The View.
Savvy foodies are already aware of the changes that executive chef Sean
Priester’s been making to the menu these past few years, and now the
restaurant’s had a complete makeover (perhaps the most overdue in
Honolulu restaurant history) too.
“There’s been a lot of hype recently about the restaurant,” says Sean.
“Partly of course its the renovation, but we’re happy to see that its
also people talking about the menu.”
Priester is making some of the most visually thrilling, artistically
presented, palate pleasing food in Honolulu ,and in the
past few years his style has become clearer and more intense. “We are
totally focused on what we’re doing here,” says the passionate and
immensely likeable Priester. “We focus on quality ingredients and
execution, but at the end of the day I believe when people go out to
eat they don’t want to experience things that they can eat or make at
home. The restaurant business is also the entertainment business.”
I’ve heard similar comments for years from chefs convinced they’ve come
up with the new version of fusion, but I believe that Priester is
one of a rarer breed, capable of perfecting the delicate balance
between execution, quality and taste. At Top of Waikiki there are two
things that are true: the food looks beautiful, and the flavors work.
“I feel like it’s up to me to use my voice as a chef to totally wow people when they come to the restaurant, ” he says.
While years ago the view was the only memorable part of a visit to Top
Of Waikiki ,today it’s the food that’s changing opinions.
“Let’s face it,” says Priester, “Lots of the guests are
coming up here because of the view. The thrill is to be able to
wow them with the food.”
With dishes like American Kobe cheeseburger Wellington, Niman Ranch
Kalbi Ribs and Hawaiian Snapper Sous Vide its hard to tear your
eyes away from the plates.
And what’s fun about Priester’s food, is that the menu reads like
a culinary autobiography of the chef. Priester is inspired by the
ordinary events of everyday life – a train trip in Spain, a farmers
market, other chefs, and his own Southern background, and all of
these influences can be found on his plates.
A recent trip to Europe for example inspired the Tapas of Waikiki
($24) where roasted vegetables and mushroom escabeche (inspired by a
trip to Spain) sit next to mini camembert and tomato sandwiches. French
soft cheese, lightly poached pears and Serrano ham (memories of a
sandwich he ate on a train in Barcelona) are plated next to
miniature tortillas and Nicoise salad on a stick –the classic
ingredients of potato, olive, tuna, green beans, anchovy and egg a
delightfully deconstructed salad.
While the view and the refurbishments at Top of Waikiki are
certainly worthy of a new look, it’s the chef who’ll get your full
attention.
Listen to an interview with Sean here.
Top of Waikiki
Waikiki Business Plaza
923 3877
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